The 2012 Coeur de Cuvée has almost contradictory qualities; on one side it shows a richness and vinous quality, and on the other it is precise, youthful and austere. With air in a wine glass rather than a flute, it reveals hints of peach, pit fruit, smoke, patisserie and spice. The mousse is luxuriant and fine, carrying a layered Champagne with great depth. The ripeness here is stunning, as is the balance – the acidity offsets this ripeness beautifully leading to a taut, mouth-watering, mineral-nuanced finish. There is a crystalline purity to this 2012; it seems so precise and texturally impressive and there is little doubt that this has the structure to age. It would be fascinating to taste this after a decade in bottle as it is sure to rival Vilmart’s best. Outstanding. (SL).