99 points Falstaff - Maturity and evolution is immediately apparent with a lovely lift of subtle salted caramel, followed by a notion of Golden Delicious apple with the merest, spicy edge of maple syrup. More air reinforces bright citrus lift. The palate, however, is a picture of creamy, resonant, fruity freshness, alive with citrus verve and in place of bready autolysis there is a gorgeous, savoury, umami depth. An edge of pithiness supports the superfine, creamy mousse and once again underscores that deliciously animating, profound, salty depth. Simply beautiful, enduring, elegant. This will be a joy for years to come.