96 Vinous - In many ways, the gorgeous 2014 Barolo Lazzarito is the most surprising wine in the range. Once a stylistic outlier with a considerable French oak influence, today it is much closer to the other Barolos in terms of feel. Deep, dark and intense, with all of the energy of the year very much on display, the Lazzarito is super-expressive and shows a more red-toned profile than is the norm. Kirsch, mint, rose petal and chalk all develop in the glass, while beams of tannin and salinity give the wine shape and persistence. The weight and depth of Serralunga come through on the midpalate and into the finish. Even so, this is in a decidedly laid-back style for Serralunga. In 2014, I especially like the wine's aromatic presence.