The additional five years in glass have allowed this wine to blossom. While still quite fresh on the nose with Asian pear, lemon peel, and white peach, the baking spices have emerged handsomely. Itâ€™s still too early for any aged character to become prominent, although thereâ€™s the slightest hint of fresh apricot, a harbinger of good things to come.
The concentration and density here are impressive. While this had always been a strikingly fruit-forward vintage, itâ€™s exciting to experience more mineral character in the forms of crushed gravel and chalk. Moreover, the fruit here leans more citrusâ€”as lemon oilâ€”along with baked apples.Â Thereâ€™s certainly more toffee and burnt caramel as well, relics of barrel aging and lees contact.
Supple creaminess and toast drive the finish as the acid has softened and integrated with time. Here there is some marzipan but itâ€™s still lurking beneath white pepper and clove. This is a beautiful Chardonnay that is just hitting its stride.